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Common Creeping Red Fescue - Festuca rubra var. rubra

Creeping Red Fescue Seed

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Creeping Red Fescue Seed
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1 ACRE = 43,560 SQ FT

Common Creeping Red Fescue is a consistant performer for improved turf qualtiy. It is widely adaptable to a variety of environmental conditions and maintenance practices. 

Northern Zone Planting Dates

Early to mid-spring

Late summer to early fall

Transitional Zone Planting Dates

Early to mid-spring

Late summer to early fall

Southern Zone Planting Dates NA
Planting Depth 1/4 inch
Amount of Sunlight Full sun
Soil pH 6.5 - 7.0
Fertilizer Starter such as 12-12-12 at seeding; follow up in 6 weeks with slow release fertilizer such as 25-0-8
Primary Usage Residential and commercial lawns
Soil Type Most soil types. Soil pH is a more important variable
How to Plant See 'How To' tab 


Seeding Rate: 4 - 5 LBS / 1,000 SQ FT

Four Easy Steps to Establishing a New Lawn

The best time to establish a new lawn is late summer or early spring. You’ll get more satisfying results when you plant in these cooler months.

1. Till and fertilize the soil.

  • Till soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches.
  • Broadcast lime and lawn starter fertilizer, following recommended rates and mix into soil.
  • Rake level and smooth, removing rocks, sticks and old sod clumps.
  • Roll the area with a heavy roller in two directions to settle the soil.
  • Rake again to level and loosen the surface.

2. Sow seed.

  • Evenly broadcast seed at rate recommended for your mixture—typically 3 to 10# per 1000 square feet.
  • Use one-half the rate and seed twice at right angles to ensure uniform coverage.
  • Rake or drag lightly, to incorporate the seed into the top quarter inch of soil.
  • Firmly pack or roll the seedbed.

3. Apply mulch.

  • Evenly spread a clean, weed-free hay or straw mulch (or comparable product), at a rate of 50# per 1000 square feet.
  • Mulch is important to retain surface moisture, prevent soil from washing, and protect seedlings from sun and wind.

4. Water.

  • Thoroughly water soil using a fine spray sprinkler to prevent seed and soil from getting washed away.
  • Keep seedbed moist to a depth of 1 inch during the germination period (14 to 21 days).
  • As seedlings sprout and become established, gradually reduce water, but don’t allow soil to dry out until grass is well established
    (45 to 60 days).
  • After 60 days the lawn can be treated as an established lawn requiring 1 inch of water per week while actively growing.

Your Beautiful Lawn: Tips

  • Mow your new lawn when it reaches 3 to 4 inches.
  • Mow higher: Keep your mower’s cutting height set
    at approximately 3 inches.
  • Important: Keep mower blades sharp.
  • No more than a third of the growth
    should be removed with each cutting.
  • Fertilize and water at regular intervals.
  •  Use weed prevention products as needed.

FAQ: Fertilizer & Turf

What do the numbers mean on the fertilizer package?
The ideal fertilizer is designed to meet the nutritional requirements of the plant it serves. Mineral nutrients are classified as major, secondary and minor elements. The three major mineral elements of a typical fertilizer are Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium—often referred to by their chemical symbols "N", "P" and "K.” So, a fertilizer with a guaranteed analysis of 25-3-5 would consist of 25% Nitrogen (N), 3% Phosphorus (P205), and 5% Potassium (K2O). No one essential nutrient is of greater importance than any other. All of the essential elements are necessary for proper development of turfgrass, but the major and secondary elements are needed in larger quantities than the minor elements.

Why are the N-P-K numbers more important than the secondary?
Nitrogen is an essential part of all living matter. It is the basis for amino acids that combine to form proteins. Nitrogen is associated with above-ground vegetative growth and density of turf, as well as its deep green color. Deficiency is noticed in turf that has turned light green or yellow. The blades start dying at the tip and progress along the midrib until the entire leaf is dead.

Phosphorusis the key nutrient in seedling development since it contributes so much to initial root development and seed formation. It is directly related to the vital growth process. Deficiency is most likely to be observed in seedling growth when new seedlings are slow to develop. On established grasses the leaves tend to turn purple.

Potassium(also known as potash) is found in large quantities in the plant. Potassium is associated with winter hardiness and disease resistance in turf. Deficiency will appear in the blades becoming streaked with yellow, turn brown at the tips and eventually die. Susceptibility to disease and winter injury is also increased.

There’s a lot of talk about adjusting soil pH before doing anything else. How do I measure and adjust accurately?
A soil may be alkaline, acidic or essentially neutral. The alkalinity or acidity of a soil is measured by its pH. All pH values occur somewhere in a scale running from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 is neutral with numbers less that 7 indicating acidity and numbers over 7 being alkaline. It is commonly accepted that a pH range of 6.5 to 7 is good for raising turfgrass. In the ideal pH range the overall availability of the major elements is “unlocked’ to the plant’s advantage. When the pH strays too far from this ideal, nutrients become less available and more difficult for the plant to use.

It is possible to improve soil pH by adding high-calcium lime to acidic soils. In the other extreme, sulfur in various forms, can be used to acidify excessively alkaline soils to a more ideal range. To learn how to take a soil sample and where to send it for analysis, download this Soil Info PDFnow. It’s wise to have a soil test to determine if the pH needs to be raised, lowered or left as is—as well as to reveal the fertilizer deficiencies (or over applications!) in your soil.

Sulfur is an essential part of certain amino acids and proteins. Together with nitrogen, this element makes new protoplasm for plant cell growth. Deficiency is similar to that of nitrogen in that the leaves will turn light green or yellow, then turn brown, and eventually die.

What about amending the soil’s minor elements?
Iron plays an integral part in chlorophyll production and is also a part of many enzymes. It is responsible for giving turf its deep green color. Deficiency symptoms include chlorotic or even white young leaves due to a reduction or loss of chlorophyll.

Other Minors are essential but not discussed here since most soils have the minor elements in necessary amounts. A complete soil test will determine if any of these minor elements are needed.

Fertilization Recommendations

Lawn Starter. Apply 10-10-10, 13-16-20 or a similar balanced fertilizer at a rate of 25# per 2500 sq. ft.

Lawn & Turf Maintenance. General rule of thumb is to provide 1# of actual nitrogen per application per 1000 sq. ft. repeated three to four times per year (about every 6-8 weeks throughout the growing season for a healthy lawn. Apply 25-3-10, 20-5-10 (or similar blend) at a rate of 20-25# per 5000 sq. ft. of lawn area. Additions of iron and sulfur are also desirable.

Lawn Winterization. Apply 10-10-10, 13-16-20 or a similar balanced fertilizer at a rate of 25# per 5000 sq. ft.

Herbicidescan be included with fertilizer applications. Follow directions and applications on the bag that generally corresponds with above rates.

Garden, Flower Beds and Planters. 2 to 3 applications per growing season of 10-10-10 (20# per 800 sq. ft.) OR 19-19-19 (10# per 800 sq. ft.).

Trees and Shrubs. Scatter 3-4 applications per growing season around the base of tree or shrub out to the drip line.

  • Small (<3’ shrub or <10’ tree): One small handful of 10-10-10
  • Medium (3’ shrub, 10’ tree): One large handful of 10-10-10
  •  Large (>3’ shrub or > 10’ tree): 2-3 handfuls of 10-10-10

If you have a question regarding this product the Seedsmen at Deer Creek Seed are here to help. Please use any of the contact information listed below.


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